Cheese has become a major topic of conversation in Spain and Europe, not only because of its everyday presence on the table, but also due to a series of economic, gastronomic, and even police events that have placed it at the center of public debate. From million-dollar robberies at artisanal cheese dairies to health crises threatening the production of Greek feta, and from cheesecake competitions like the World Cheese Awards to supermarket promotions and the rise of small specialty shops, the cheese world is experiencing a moment that is as intense as it is complex.
While consumers continue to enjoy artisanal, industrial, fresh, and aged cheeses made with traditional or cutting-edge recipes, the sector faces challenges related to safety, animal health, international competition, and changing consumption habits, such as the listeria and E. coli outbreaks . All of this paints a picture in which cheese culture is growing and diversifying, but at the same time must contend with problems ranging from nighttime break-ins to the impact of diseases on livestock.
Blow to an artisanal cheese factory: massive robbery in Cáceres
One of the most striking incidents in recent days is the theft of approximately 3.600 kilos of cheese from the Los Casareños artisanal cheese factory, located in the Casar de Cáceres industrial park. The thieves used the " butrón" technique, drilling through walls or ceilings to gain entry without raising immediate suspicion. The estimated value of the stolen goods is around €60.000, a significant sum for a medium-sized business focused on artisanal production.
This type of robbery is not improvised: everything suggests that the perpetrators were very familiar with the facilities and the stored product , reinforcing the hypothesis of a planned and professional operation. The cheese factory, with deep roots in the area, specializes in the production of Torta del Casar, a Protected Designation of Origin soft cheese highly valued both within and outside of Extremadura.
The impact of the theft goes far beyond the immediate financial blow. The theft of thousands of kilos of cheese represents the loss of months of work in the aging and care of the product , something difficult to recover overnight. The Casar de Cáceres Town Hall has emphasized the damage this represents for the local production sector, as it directly affects a cheese factory that contributes to the region's culinary identity.
The Judicial Police went to the premises after the incident, sealed off the area, and began collecting evidence and security camera footage , including from a nearby gas station, to try to identify suspicious vehicle or pedestrian movements on the night of the robbery. No arrests have been made so far, but law enforcement is investigating the possibility that it is the work of an organized gang operating in several industrial parks in the province of Cáceres using the same modus operandi.
The sheeppox crisis and the future of Greek feta cheese
In Europe, cheese is also at the center of a delicate situation. Greece is facing a serious epidemic of sheep and goat pox that has forced the culling of nearly half a million animals, including sheep and goats. The outbreak, initially detected in the north of the country in late 2024, has spread rapidly, and the measures implemented so far have not been able to contain it effectively.
The Greek government faces a profound health and economic dilemma . The World Organisation for Animal Health and the European Commission recommend vaccination to contain the disease, but the Greek government is reluctant to take this step due to the consequences it would have on foreign trade. Vaccination would mean officially acknowledging that the virus is widespread and losing Greece's disease-free status, which would entail severe restrictions on the export of sheep and goat products.
The epicenter of the concern is feta cheese , made exclusively in Greece from sheep's and goat's milk and protected by a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) that prevents its production under that name in other countries. Approximately 80% of Greek sheep's and goat's milk is used for feta production, and of that volume, around 65% is exported. We are talking about some 140.000 tons of feta annually within a total production of around 200.000 tons of soft cheeses, with exports exceeding 700 million euros in a single year.
Sheep and goat pox, caused by viruses of the caprypoxvirus group, is not transmissible to humans , but it has a high mortality rate in ruminants and exhibits significant environmental resistance. The pathogen can persist for months in contaminated pens or in the wool and scabs of animals, complicating its eradication without strict biosecurity and disinfection measures. Transmission occurs through direct contact between animals, contaminated dust, and even insects that act as mechanical carriers.
While Brussels insists that vaccination must be complemented by traditional culling to reduce infections, the Greek government has opted for what is known as "sanitary culling": whenever an outbreak is detected, the entire herd is culled, and the carcasses are disposed of in a controlled manner through burning and burial. At the same time, reports have emerged of farmers using unauthorized vaccines imported from third countries , which adds another layer of difficulty, as it makes it hard to distinguish whether the antibodies come from the infection itself or from illegal vaccination.
The socioeconomic impact on rural Greece is enormous. Official compensation, amounting to around 200 or 250 euros per animal slaughtered , is considered insufficient by many producers, who are seeing their flocks of hundreds of head, built up over years, disappear. Rebuilding a sheep or goat dairy farm can take two or three years, and several farmers are considering abandoning the activity. At the same time, experts warn that if the situation continues, the price of feta cheese could skyrocket and become almost a luxury item in the short term due to the drastic reduction in available milk.
Lessons from Spain: controlled outbreaks and fears surrounding iconic cheeses
The crisis in Greece resonates particularly in countries like Spain, where the sheep and goat sector also supports cheeses with significant economic and cultural importance , such as Manchego. Just a few years ago, Spanish livestock farmers faced a state of alert when sheep and goat pox was detected in the province of Granada, with outbreaks spreading through the Baza region and reaching areas of Cuenca.
In Spain, the outbreaks were limited to a relatively small number of farms , and the response was to cull the affected animals and implement strict movement restrictions. According to animal health specialists, the outbreak could have been contained even sooner if all farmers had strictly adhered to the livestock movement restrictions and implemented biosecurity measures rigorously.
Even so, Spain temporarily lost its status as a country free of sheep and goat pox , which it later regained once the disease was under control and the necessary period had passed without new outbreaks. The Spanish experience has become a benchmark demonstrating that it is possible to contain an outbreak without resorting to vaccination, provided the number of cases is small and swift and disciplined action is taken on the ground.
The contrast with the situation in Greece is striking. In Greece, the number of outbreaks and affected farms is much higher , making it more difficult to rely solely on culling as a control measure. While in Spain the risk to renowned cheeses, such as Manchego, was contained in time, in Greece feta is at the center of a storm involving animal health, international trade, and European regulations on protected designations of origin.
Spanish exports on the rise: cheese as a gastronomic ambassador
Alongside these health challenges, the Spanish cheese industry has experienced significant growth in its exports , particularly to distant but high-spending markets such as the United States. Despite a context of trade tensions and increased tariffs on European products, Spanish cheese companies have managed to increase their sales to that country by around 34%, comfortably exceeding 12 million euros.
This progress is even more striking when compared to the performance of other major producers. While France and Italy have registered modest increases in their cheese exports to the United States, of 6% and 2% respectively, Spain has managed to position itself with much greater dynamism. Among the most appreciated products are cheeses with quality seals such as Manchego, Murciano al vino, and Mahón , although American consumers are also beginning to show interest in varieties considered niche or highly artisanal.
The North American market is particularly attractive due to its high per capita cheese consumption , which is around 17 kilos per person per year, more than double the domestic consumption in Spain, which stands at approximately 7,8 kilos per year per household. This difference explains why a significant portion of Spanish production is now geared towards export, to the point that cheese has become Spain's leading dairy export , with a value of approximately 400 million euros.
To strengthen this presence, the sector has invested in targeted promotional campaigns in key markets . One of the most notable is “Cheestories,” a kind of road trip featuring a family of American content creators who travel through different Spanish regions discovering their diverse cheeses. The initiative, supported by the dairy interprofessional organization InLac and co-financed by the European Commission, has generated millions of views and significant media impact, to the point of being considered an example of best practice in European agri-food promotion.
Price, competition and the role of distribution in Spain
However, the strong performance abroad contrasts with some difficulties within the Spanish market itself. Cheese producers report a loss of competitiveness against very cheap cheeses from Northern Europe , which have low added value and prices that are difficult for domestic producers to match. In a context of inflation and strain on household budgets, some consumers end up opting for these cheaper options, which reduces the market share of Spanish cheese; there have even been cases such as the recall of grated cheese due to safety concerns.
Supermarket chains play a key role in balancing quality and price. In this area, some retailers have developed their own-brand cheese lines with a strong focus on domestic ingredients and competitive prices; for example, initiatives promoting fresh Canarian cheese in their product range. The aim is to offer everything from fresh cheeses like Burgos to more intense varieties, as well as spreads, cooking products, and cheese boards, ensuring that consumers don't have to forgo locally sourced cheeses for economic reasons.
Among the typical products featured in these types of campaigns are fresh cow's and goat's milk cheeses, award-winning goat cheese logs, spreads, and cheddar in various stages of aging, as well as some international specialties like burrata and cottage cheese, designed for both everyday consumption and more elaborate dishes. The strategy involves associating the brand with good value for money, maintaining a strong presence of domestically sourced milk in the production process , and complementing the offering with cheeses from countries with a long cheesemaking tradition, such as Italy, France, the Netherlands, and Germany.
These proposals align with the policy of some supermarket chains to maintain discounted prices without sacrificing variety , reducing the cost of many products and ensuring that cheese remains a staple in the weekly shopping basket. In this way, distribution becomes a key element in sustaining domestic consumption and, at the same time, in providing an outlet for the production of a sector that finds its main avenue for growth in exports.
Fairs, championships and experiences: the boom in cheese culture
Beyond the industry and supermarket shelves, cheese culture is experiencing a true boom in the culinary and leisure sectors. Cheesecakes , including versions like vegan cheesecake , have become one of the trendiest desserts in Spain, with specialized bakeries, shops focused almost exclusively on this sweet treat, and viral creations flooding social media. In cities like Madrid, pastry shops and restaurants abound, all boasting of having "the best cheesecake in town."
In this context, a national championship dedicated to finding the best cheesecake in the country has emerged , called The Champions Cheesecake. This event brings together around fifteen bakeries from different parts of Spain—from Madrid and Barcelona to regions like Castilla-La Mancha, Extremadura, Cantabria, and Ibiza—offering a diverse overview of how this dessert is interpreted in each region.
Each participant competes with two recipes: a classic version and an innovative one . The classic version aims to represent the most traditional cheesecake, while the innovative version allows for complete creative freedom to surprise with unusual flavors, textures, or combinations, from hints of nuts or spices to nods to other desserts and sweets. The audience can sample the different entries and participate in a vote to award two prizes: best classic cheesecake and best innovative cheesecake.
These kinds of events add to the growing presence of cheese in cooking shows, gastronomic tours, and educational activities . In Andalusia, for example, television cooking programs have dedicated entire episodes to cheese-producing regions, showcasing artisanal goat and sheep cheeses and using local cheeses as the main ingredient in savory recipes, from stuffed tenderloins to creamy rice dishes.
The result is greater visibility for small and medium-sized cheese producers who find in these formats a showcase to promote their products outside the usual channels. Cheese is no longer just an accompaniment at the table, but has become a central element of gastronomic experiences, festivals, and fairs, with an increasingly interested public eager to learn about its origin, aging methods, and culinary possibilities.
New cheese shops, personal stories, and monthly subscriptions
The cheese boom is also evident in the opening of specialty shops that combine sales, advice, and cheese culture . In medium-sized cities like Irun, businesses have sprung up, driven by young entrepreneurs who, after traveling the world and working in internationally renowned establishments, have decided to make cheese their livelihood.
Some of these shops were born out of experiences in unique places like large cheese shops in the United States, with hundreds of varieties from around the world , where they learned about logistics, selection, and customer service; they even incorporate new products like vegan cheese . Back home, the goal is to offer a carefully curated selection of national and international cheeses, from classics like Manchego and Roncal to lesser-known French, Dutch, and Italian specialties.
In many cases, these projects aim to work as directly as possible with small producers , including other gourmet products that complement the cheese, such as artisanal jams, preserves, or carefully selected wines. The idea is to build a close relationship between those who make the product and those who consume it, with the shop serving as a meeting point.
One of the fastest-growing models is the "cheese club" or monthly subscription , whereby customers receive a box each month containing several selected wedges, often of cheeses not usually found in the store. This model allows customers to discover new cheeses and serves as a testing ground: if certain varieties are very popular with subscribers, they eventually become a permanent part of the store's offerings.
The high level of demand during special occasions, such as Christmas, demonstrates that cheese has become a popular gourmet gift , offered in the form of gift baskets, personalized cheese boards, or themed sets. For many of these small urban cheese producers, the Christmas season means weeks of intense work until late at night, but also confirmation that there is a market willing to appreciate the diversity and quality of their products.
Cheese, wine and proverbs: from "don't let them pull the wool over your eyes" to conscious pairing
The deep-rooted presence of cheese in Spanish culture is even reflected in proverbs. The oft-repeated expression "don't let them pull the wool over your eyes" originates from the relationship between cheese and wine , alluding to less-than-transparent practices in some old wineries. The custom involved offering a very aged and strong cheese before tasting a low-quality wine, one with defects such as acidity or green tannins.
The logic behind this trick was clear: the fat and intense aromas of a well-aged cheese saturate the palate , making it more difficult to perceive the wine's flaws. This is why some wine experts still advise against eating cheese immediately before tasting a wine, especially if it's a strong cheese, if you truly want to evaluate it.
However, this doesn't mean that wine and cheese are irreconcilable enemies, far from it. Pairing them is a widespread practice, both in wineries and in private homes, with the aim of harmonizing intensities and complementing flavors . Generally speaking, it's recommended to pair mild cheeses with light wines and strong cheeses with more structured or sweet wines, adjusting each pairing to the specific cheese's profile.
Common examples of pairings include soft cheeses like Camembert or Brie with light white or young red wines , aged cow's milk cheeses with full-bodied red wines, blue cheeses with contrasting sweet wines, and Manchego with aged red wines. The key is to prevent one of the two elements from completely overpowering the other, something that is achieved by trying different combinations and observing how the palate reacts.
At a time when guided tastings and introductory workshops on cheese and wine are proliferating, this old proverb serves as a reminder of the importance of tasting with discernment and not being swayed solely by first impressions. Far removed from the roguishness of yesteryear, today the goal of those who organize pairings is for the public to understand why certain cheeses pair better with some wines than others, and to learn to enjoy both more consciously.
This whole collection of stories—from the robbery of a cheese factory in Extremadura and the smallpox crisis threatening Greek cheese, to the export boom of Spanish cheese, supermarket promotions, cake competitions, and new neighborhood shops—shows how cheese has become a true barometer of economic, cultural, and gastronomic realities . What happens on farms, in factories, in international markets, and in small city cheese shops ends up being reflected on the cheese board served at home, where concerns about price and safety coexist with the simple pleasure of cutting a wedge and sharing it with good company.
